Travel Day Finally – Spring Cove Marina to Rock Hall Harbor

Very overcast with a bit of drizzle

We enjoyed Spring Cove Marina with the swimming pool, nice showers, and great staff but it is time to move onward to get our Bimini Top repaired. A misty, overcast, rainy morning cool again early temps in the 60’s and later as the skies cleared a bit up to 75 or so. Wind out of the east to start shifting to northeast and then west and a bit of a change up to the south this evening at anchorage. One of our autopilot display controllers no longer boots up so I move the display from the upper helm to the lower helm so we could steer from inside the cabin. We have redundant systems but we come to rely on a certain pattern of activities. Since we do not have a Bimini Top or upper helm windshield we will steer from the lower helm in all but the best conditions. As we entered the anchorage this evening we did steer from the upper helm since the sun was out and the winds quite calm. The only factor that slows down the boat is that we were traveling against the tidal current almost the whole way and making only about 7 mph, at one point the adverse current was 1.5 mph. We observed anywhere from 9.5 to 5.3 mph today with the same throttle setting.
 

These large ships are very interesting to me

We traveled 68 miles today, up the Chesapeake past Cambridge, St. Michaels and Annapolis all places we had planned to visit on our journey, But the Bimini is critical to enjoying our cruise. We saw large ocean going ships just south of the Bay Bridge that links Annapolis to the eastern shore. I believe the only other bridge across the Chesapeake is tunnel bridge near the ocean.

We followed 4 sailboats into the anchorage and they all rafted together after searching out the area. There are 9 boats in this anchorage this evening and plenty of room for more if necessary. 

The Bay Bridge just north of Annapolis, 4.3 miles long

The sun settles at our anchorage

Waiting for the Weather

Great Marina with an excellent staff

Still here at Spring Cove.  Everyday there are small craft warnings and predictions of rain, so we stay and wait.  It has rained pretty hard every evening, and we understand Chesapeake Bay is not very hospitable the last few days.  But from here at the dock one sometimes hopes for rain just to prove we were right to sit and wait.

Today it is actually a whole new weather front, much chillier (60 degrees) and overcast.  The rain will probably come again soon.  We did fill up with fuel and are totally ready to depart as soon as the clouds lift tomorrow morning.

Lunch at Solomons Pier

Meanwhile, we are going  into town for lunch and to the grocery store.  This evening is the “event of the season” for Solomons – Rascal Flatts is here the first stop on their Rewind tour.  They sold out the 6,000 tickets within ten minutes, but the venue is only about a block from the marina and we are told that we can hear the music from here.  We will walk over to the big open lot where the concert is and see what we can see and hear.  

 

Rascal Flatts Rewind Tour

Rascal Flatts in Concert

Maintenance Day

We decided to stay another day at Spring Cove waiting a weather window for our passage to the Bohemia River to get our Bimini repaired. The lower helm autopilot is not operating correctly and that coupled with no Bimini top means it would be very difficult to operate in any type of bad weather. Today I called Garmin tech department and they talked me through a few additional steps of trouble shooting to determine the problem. I believe the lower helm control display is the cause of the problem and have ordered a replacement to be shipped to our next destination. I also added some wiring that will allow me to move the operational control display from the upper helm to the lower helm if necessary. While I was doing that, I also removed the lower helm inoperable depth sounder and moved the second one at the upper helm to the lower helm. Tucked up all the wiring and tested the systems. 

Memorial Day at Solomons MD

Adam with a snack on the foredeck

We have had a great weather weekend to be here at Spring Cove and since it was Memorial Day, Debi, Tom, Ayla and Adam came for an overnight visit.  It was so good to see family again.   On Sunday we took a boat ride so Adam and Ayla could drive Reunion and then we spent a few hours at the pool.  For dinner we went to Kingfishers and had shrimp, jambalaya, chowder, fish tacos and all manner of seafood.  After a walk along the boardwalk and an ice cream cone we were all ready for sleep.

Dinghy Ride

Today there were many hours at the pool and a dinghy ride.  We also spent a lot of time watching the Ospreys and their nests across the river.  The DiBattista family left in the early evening and after all that swimming and constant activity, the kids were probably asleep before they got to the highway.

Nonnie teaching the kids, funny faces

Solomons MD

1957 Boat with a 1958 Evinrude motor

Busy day today as we cleaned and scrubbed to make the boat look its best, despite its hatless state.  After a few hours of that we took a break to go to the Calvert County Marine Museum.  We’ve seen a few of these and this is among the best – much larger than most small town museums, no pirates but a lot of boat history, boat descriptions and even a display on boat racing focusing on the first speed boats and hydroplane boats in the 50’s and 60’s.  This was the era when personal/family recreational watercraft became common.  Earlier boats were commercial; for transportation, or for fishermen and shipping commercial goods.  Finally “everyman” could play on the water.

Small hydroplane boat, childhood dreams!!!

The museum also had a Lighthouse that had been located off the north point of the Patuxent River entrance.  It had been cut off at the water line and brought into this little cove at the museum, and refurbished to show a real lighthouse and how it operated. 

Finally, as a reward for our hard work, and living to see another day, we went out for a terrific dinner date and enjoyed ourselves completely.

Drum Island Lighthouse, moved to the museum 1975

 

Nicely furnished

Looks real 

Automatic Fog Bell, two rings every 15 seconds

Spring Cove Marina, Solomons MD

Reunion decapatated

Considering the size of the storm yesterday – Tiny in size but mighty in muscle – we have been talking about the statistical probabilities of that particular cloud getting in our particular path.  Seems unbelievable.   But, in spite of the storm we got the instructions to dock after the marina closed, and slowly got into a slip last night.  D13, right on the end, behind the T dock, next to marker #8.    So what are the probabilities that we wake up this morning, Dennis walks outside and comes back and says, “I think we’re in the wrong marina”.  It didn’t look anything like the pretty pictures we had seen on line. 

So I called the marina back again and – sure enough - we are in the wrong marina.  About 100 yards away there is another marina, with slip D13, right on the end, behind the T dock and right off marker #8.  Except at this one, you go straight at marker #8 and THEN turn left.    Life is what happens when you are making other plans!  Fortunately the correct marina – Spring Cove, which is a very nice place – gave us a nice rate on the slip and a free night for all our grief.

Pool area on the right

Today we gave ourselves a lazy day.  Dennis is talking to insurance people and canvas tailors and I made an omelet for brunch.  Then we went for a walk and borrowed bicycles to ride into the village.  For me that makes a second death-defying act in two days.  But its true, you never forget how to ride a bike.  

This is a very pretty area, with about 4 dozen marinas; one right after another, and it had been described as an east coast vacation paradise.  So far, we think it’s a nice village right next to a busy highway but further exploration will follow in the next few days.

Pool deck and Marina Office, Boaters Lounge and Tiki Bar

Deltaville to Solomons, MD

Carol’s version:

We are ok.  We will call the insurance company in the morning.  We drove into a wall this afternoon. With scattered red and orange spots on the radar, we thought we were slipping between them.  But nope, when we met the wall we got drenched within seconds and smacked with 55-60 mph winds.  The tops and windshield blew in on us and then it hailed on us.  Didn’t matter that the Bimini was flapping all around us because we couldn’t see the front of the boat anyway.  Quite exciting.  Glad it’s over.

Dennis’s version:

Leaving the marina, mom sitting on eggs, 30 ft away

Our plan today was to leave a bit later and cruise about 30 miles to an anchorage at Smith Point at the border of Virginia and Maryland. I completed a little project this morning and changed out the second primary fuel filter, then a quick shower and the recycle center to get rid of the old fuel filters. Carol wanted to get underway early. We planned a short trip today and expected to be at anchor all day tomorrow since a front will pass.

We made good progress even after leaving at 10:00 and by 1:30 we were at our planned stop, we discussed continuing and moved on across the Potomac River with just a bit of northwest breeze blowing down the river. The cruise continued and we picked out an anchorage for this evening, expecting a blow tomorrow. As we moved closer, Carol called the marina we planned to use for Saturday through Monday and arranged for us to arrive this evening with a significant discount for the 5 day stay.

Big ships on the Chesapeake

About 4:30 the Coast Guard broadcast a special weather warning. A storm cell was passing from Annapolis across the bay to the Choptank River on the eastern shore, about 50 miles north of us. I began watching the cloud formation ahead of us, while we enjoyed the sunshine. As I looked at the radar on my cell phone, I noticed a strong storm cell to the north and additionally one to the south. We were in the middle with these scattered storm cells around us, but all was looking good for us to move up the Patuxent River to the marina.

We rounded the last mark on our route and saw the storm front approaching. A wall of rain that surely included a gust of wind. Carol and I were both on the fly bridge when it began to rain, then heavy rain, and several gusts of wind, then the windshield blew over our heads, my hat went missing. Then the Bimini top blew away, now totally unprotected the hail started in earnest. I could not see the front of the boat, Carol grabbed the floating cushion and I used it to protect my head while steering. But since I could not see the front of the boat, which way to steer? The autopilot was engaged and continued our course into the wind, thereby keeping the boat in the safest position. The entire event lasted 15 minutes tops, and the sun and a double rainbow followed.

We lost two sections of the windshield, the Bimini top is all torn-up, the Bimini frame work is bent, a VHF antenna is destroyed, we lost a hatch cover, our AGLCA flag and staff are gone, but we are fine. After the storm I removed the remaining Bimini top, rearranged the structure and we proceeded to the marina in light winds and sunshine. We saw a beautiful rainbow behind us after the storm.

 

Before the storm, Bimini still in place

Norfolk to Deltaville, VA

LST, Landing Ship Tank fold out the ramp and roll off the tanks

Norfolk it a huge marine environment with large channels, many intersecting points and gigantic ships both civilian and military. Plus navigation is a bit counterintuitive, you must go northwest to go east so you can go north. So when looking at current direction of travel it can seem wrong and that a course alteration is necessary up a river that does not go the planned route. We made all the correct turns today and proceeded up the Chesapeake to Deltaville in what seemed to be a negative tidal current even though the tide should have been in our favor. Oh well we made it. We observed 5 or 6 large ships headed up the bay, probably for Baltimore.

Lots of this size ship all lined up.

Southwest winds decreased during the day and now it is quite calm. We arrived about 3:00 and had enough time to use the marina car and go into town. Deltaville is a boating mecca, we counted three canvas shops, the hardware store also has marine parts and there is a fairly large West Marine, a rum store, and 5 or 6 marinas. This town has 1100 people and was built around building wooden boats. They will have their first ever Seafood festival on Friday, but alas we will miss it.

Dozier’s is a must stop place on the Chesapeake since they produce the Waterway Guides we all use to plan and execute our trips. There are guides for the Chesapeake, AICW, Lake Michigan, Lake Erie, the Bahamas and on and on. Really great books we use them as a primary source for trip information and then add the crowd sourced data on Active Captain and blogs by other cruisers to gain meaningful information. That and it is a great marina, with a pool, clean showers, loaner cars, useable Wi-Fi and attentive staff. All in all a great stop 4.5 miles off the Chesapeake.

A spot of land on the Chesapeake

The Clubhouse and Marina Office

Calm and Peaceful, work done for the day time to relax

Norfolk, VA

A Mermaid Fountain

Had to get the housekeeping under control this morning so Dennis changed the fuel filters while I went to the grocery.  After that we were free to enjoy this town.  We walked around the downtown and found that it was all been renovated since 1970, leaving a beautiful waterfront area and lively restaurant area.  On the drive to the grocery I saw some really nice residential areas, plenty of big trees and nicely tended areas.  The corporate/business area downtown also looks prosperous and modern. We also learned very quickly that mermaids are the Norfolk “town mascot”

Mermaid covered with museum entrance stickers

There are mermaids everywhere – and much like civic art in other towns, some are permanent and some are part of a promotion to make sure there are an artist’s rendition of the mermaid on corners and fountains, and even the roof of a big bank.

We went to a great “museum/educational facility” called Nautica.  It is a Navy museum, as well as having lots of info on sea life and marine research.  Our main objective was to tour the battleship Wisconsin, which is permanently berthed here, and open to the public.   Its….. HUGE.   That’s it, just impressively huge.   Wisconsin has served in Iraq, Korea, WWII and only taken one damaging shot.   The ship is the length of 3 football fields and it had one four foot hole shot in a top deck, once.  For Desert Storm the ship was outfitted with Tomahawk missiles. 

On the foredeck of the Wisconsin

We were able to walk through the crew quarters, the communication center, the offices and all over inside and out.  It was set up as it was during the last deployment – and it’s amazing to consider what they could accomplish with the technology at the time.  The radio room alone had dozens of large radios set up so that they could monitor various frequencies.  We can do something similar with the little radio we now have on the helm of Reunion.

Each of these military memorials really makes you remember and appreciate all the men and women who have served our country.  A fitting experience as Memorial Day approaches this weekend. 

Yesterday in the drydock

Today alongside the drydock

Dismal Swamp to Norfolk

3Trawlers hanging out in the morning

Took a walk in the Dismal Swamp State Park this morning and then we departed to the north.  It took about 3 hours at no-wake speed (5 mph) to get to the north end of the Dismal Swamp, but we timed our ride to get to the locks and bridge at the just right time for a 1:30 opening.  Once out of the DS it was a few short miles to Norfolk.

Marcie and Rich from Tanuki

Culture shock on the water is the difference between moving through the tranquility of the wooded canal into the busy seaport that is Norfolk.  There were bridges of all sorts, and many of them require that you “hover” while waiting for the bridge to open or the train to pass through.

Alongside there is plenty to see.  Major shipbuilding and renovation was going on in giant ship hangars along the river.  The size of the operations is awesome.  We saw a huge crane on top of a 200’ Super Crane.  The yards are loading and unloading international container ships, painting battleships and building ships covered in scaffolding and towers.  Powerful little tugboats keep things in line, and tourist boats scramble back and forth in between.  Military boats make sure you don’t get too close to warships and still the waterway seems wide enough for all of us. 

Giant Crane with its own crane for repairs

On the west side of the river is Portsmouth Virginia, and to the east is the city of Norfolk.  We picked a marina right at the foot of the downtown part of the city of Norfolk.  We are slipped right across from a 3-masted schooner of the tall-ships design.  It is called the Rover and takes people for day-long sailing adventures.

Looking across the dock into the river as we arrived, we saw the schooner, and behind it a large towboat pushing 4 barges.  They passed in front of aircraft carrier just as a fast sailboat came the other direction.    The view is never dull and is often exciting.   Right behind our marina is a tourist plaza and we stopped at Joe’s Crab Shack for dinner.

Currently moored behind the schooner

All shapes and sizes

Alligator River to the Dismal Swamp

By going all the way to Alligator River Marina last night, we were well poised to cross the Albemarle Sound today.  Turned out our weather was great and the water was calm – quite a treat since the Albemarle is known to be choppy and cantankerous.  The Sound opens straight east to the Atlantic and gets all the wind and waves, but because it is very shallow, the waves are choppy and close together.  We were often advised to watch for a good weather window and we found it.

Elizabeth City Potato Festival

After that we turned into the Pasquotank River and went through Elizabeth City, a charming little town that was celebrating the Potato Festival.  We decided not to stop as the city docks are very small and rickety and we wanted to proceed on to the Dismal Swamp.  

Despite its depressing name, this is actually one of the most beautiful spots on the ICW.  It’s a long straight canal, but lined on both sides with 50’ trees and beautiful flowering bushes.  It is also a State Park and is home to a lot of wildlife.  We could hear birds all afternoon, but the foliage is so thick it’s hard to spot them.  The banks are abundant with a flowering plant that smells like wild lilacs.  A week ago, there would have been cascades of huge magnolias – that would have been a wonderful sight. The water is the color of strong tea, or root beer; kind of a dark, glowing, copper color.  It is from the tannin, released from the roots and decaying leaves of the cypress and juniper that line the canal.

South Mills Lock, entrance to the Dismal Swamp Canal

The Dismal Swamp has a rich history, swamps were called "Dismals" back in the day.  The idea was originally conceived in 1728, by George Washington and other Virginia planters;  It was hand dug, primarily by slaves.  It opened in 1805 and today is the oldest operating artificial waterway in the U.S.  It figured heavily in opening up trade along the east coast and was a primary target in the Civil War. 

We stopped this evening at the Dismal Swamp visitor center for a night at their free dock.  The last lock opening to get into the DS was at 3:30 and we were in it.  After that they close the lock and the bridge and allow no more traffic until morning.  This is fortunate because at this dock there is only room for 4 or 5 boats to tie up.  After that, you just tie up to the boat furthest out – and the next boat ties on to you.   So there are 8 boats here tonight, and we are right in the middle. If one more boat tied on, we would be covering the canal shore to shore.  To get to shore, the people tied to us crawl over our boat and then the next boat and then off onto the dock. 

Rafting up at the Visitors Center

Given the close proximity it seemed like the perfect night to host “docktails” on our sundeck.  So we did.

TCOM.LP persistant surveillance aerostat systems

The Dismal Swamp

River Dunes to Alligator River Marina

We were up early and began our journey at 7:30, we planned to travel 48 miles today and 46 tomorrow. Well we finished our 48 miles for today at 1:30 and did not want to stop. Fairly strong winds from the west today that caused some rocking and rolling on our north bound legs. Carol was a bit under the weather this morning and rested some while we traveled. We decided to do an additional 28 miles to an anchorage on the Alligator River. We traveled today with Tanuki, they had anchored in our proposed spot previously so we adjusted our plan and traveled onward. We arrived at the Deep Point anchorage about 5:00 but we were not happy with the protection the anchorage offered if the winds increased. After some discussion, we changed our plans again to stop at the Alligator River Marina which I thought was about 5 additional miles. Whoops no, actually an additional 18 miles and when traveling at 8 miles an hour that adds another 2+ hours to our day. Well we actually saw the sun set at 8:06 as we pulled into the marina. An easy docking was a blessing after a 13 hour day, total travel distance 89 miles. We will have a good nights sleep in a safe, calm marina, priceless.

A sailboat regatta in Belhaven

TowboatUS heading to work

Pretty 25 mile channel between the Pugo and Alligator Rivers

TowboatUS hard at work, boat was aground on tree stumps

Oriental, NC

We remain in River Dunes Marina today, the rain has stopped, at least for a while, and the wind may decrease this evening.  So we decided to check out the town of Oriental NC, population 910 people and 3000+ boats.

Pencil drawing by Betty Brown

We visited EVERY place in town and had a fun couple of hours.  There are several marine stores, some nice shops and a couple of good restaurants.  The highlight was “The Village Gallery”.  It’s a local artists coop with exceptionally talented artists from this area on display.  The lady tending the shop today was one of the artists and she does black and white sketches of local scenes.  Some of them have watercolor added to enhance.  She was very welcoming as well as being talented.

There were paintings and woodcarvings as well as art from a fine potter, and a jeweler who used seashells in a wonderful fashion.  We purchased a basket done in the Carolina style with woven native grasses and pine needles.  It is similar to the seagrass baskets of Charleston, but much more delicate and detailed.

Shell Jewelry

This evening we will have dinner at the Marina restaurant with Marcy and Rich, a couple from Michigan who already have their Gold Loop burgee.  They are on “Tanuki” which comes from the Japanese words for “fun, mischief and prosperity”.

Marcie and Rich from Tanuki

"Forever" by Lynn Stiller from Oriental, NC