Cumberland Towhead Island to Green Turtle Bay Marina

Cumberland River Landscape

We have been on the loop for two weeks and we have traveled 690 miles.  Some of those were long days – because there aren’t that many places to stop along the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers.  The Locks take a lot of time and so with many locks we make fewer miles.  Yesterday was an interesting day because we went through two locks that were said to have waiting lines – rumors and websites that showed wait times of 16 hours/48 hours/51 hours and the like.  By planning our approach, calling well in advance and the luck of the draw we waited less than 2 hours at each lock and felt fortunate for that. The Barkley Lock and Dam on the Cumberland River is one of the highest ones we will encounter, at 57’.  It was an awesome sight to be at the bottom of this chamber and rise up 57’ in about 15 minutes.  One person described it as “riding up in an elevator”.

Lower Cumberland River Narrow but deep

Small Kentucky River Town Church

The best news is that after several days at anchorages with no land and no showers, we turned into Green Turtle Bay marina shortly after experiencing the Barkley Lock.  We came around the bend and saw a huge marina, with lots of white buildings, tall sail masts, lighted walkways, a restaurant, a spa, a ships store, a gazebo and it was like driving into Disneyland for grown-ups.    We got cleaned up and relaxed and then found that there were at least 10-15 Looper boats here ---- docktails at the Gazebo at 5:00.

Dwarfed by the 57' lock

Green Turtle Bay Marina

Disneyland for adult boaters

 We went to Patty’s Restaurant in the nearby little town of Grand River.  Dennis and I shared a dinner of a 2 lb Pork Chop with all the accompaniments.  It was plenty for two people, plus a take-home box.  We are planning to stay at this Marina for several days and enjoy some land activities.

Olmstead Dam to Cumberland River Towhead

Yesterday we turned onto the Ohio River, and now we are moving into the Cumberland River.  Today we went through two Ohio Locks and it went smoothly, mainly because with four boats together, the lockmasters don’t seem to make you wait so long. 

My Lovely Deck Hand

We went past Paducah Kentucky, where the American Queen River Boat was docked and we had intended to stop there and see the town but a Dragon Boat race and river festival had taken up all available dock space.  So next week we will get a car and go in to Paducah to see the Quilt Museum and River Heritage Museum.

Two Little Handles Operate the Lock Doors

Found a beautiful anchorage this evening and the guys got out the dinghies.  It seems funny that it was fun to leave our boats – after 3 solid days – only to get on little tiny boats and bomb around on the water.  Dennis took Sue and her golden retriever to the shore for a walk, and then everyone ended up on the ‘Always 5 O’clock’ for drinks and laughs and stories.  So dinner was late and easy.  I think the loop would be fun by ourselves, but in a different way.  It’s been great to have the others to rely on and enjoy.  Everyone has a different sort of expertise, and all contributions are welcome.  Fortunately we travel slowly because sometimes it takes awhile for the whole committee to come to a conclusion on where to anchor etc.

Our companions are Al and Charli, on Always 5 O’clock, Chuck and Sue from Blue Moon, and Bill and Lori on Entrée.   We met all three couples at the pizza party in Chicago and are really happy to be traveling with them.

Cool Dam repair shot

Artsy Lock Shot

 

New Friends, Bill and Lori

Grand Tower Anchorage to Lock and Dam #53, Ohio River

We completed our 218 mile journey on the Mississippi and began swimming upstream on the Ohio, well really motoring upstream. Down the Mississippi we could do 13 mph while up the Ohio that dropped frequently to 6.5 mph. We have shifted from knots to mph because the river system is all in statute miles and I am tired of computing knots X 1.15 to get mph.

Anchored barges in waiting

The junction of the Ohio and Upper Mississippi Rivers is a train yard for barges. Staging barges are permanently anchored in the river and tows are built by attaching them to the anchored barges. There are about 10 stationary barges and tows are always being built. The size of the tows varies by the river and destination. Upper Mississippi tows are generally 3 barges wide and up to 5 long. On the lower Mississippi they are much larger up to 5 wide by 7 long. Lots of tugs in the area moving barges to their designated location.

Tugs to shuttle barges

We departed Chicago on September 5^th, completed the Illinois River on September 11^th, and the Mississippi River today. Several long days of travel and on the Mississippi only a few places to stop creating two back to back 80+ mile days. This pace should ease in the next couple of days.

And you think you have problems!!

Lock and Dam Construction

Bridges from a different angle

Not many safe places to stop on the river system due to low water conditions fairly common in the fall. Many of the islands are not surrounded by water and the anchorages have silted in. Higher water will change all that. So many phone calls seeking local recent knowledge and then an hour of searching for an adequate spot. But here we are anchored on the Kentucky side of the river across from the new lock construction project about a mile from the old lock and dam. Wait times have been extraordinary on the Ohio, we have two locks here 23 miles apart a boat that recently traversed down bound waited 16 hours at lock 53 and 9 hours at lock 52. We hope to move through lock 52 early tomorrow morning.

Sights and Scene

Rainy this morning overcast all day temperature in the high 60’s low 70’s a good travel day. 

Hoppies to Grand Tower Island

    

Oil or chemical barges loaded 3 X 3

Strong current at times pushing the boat 4 mph faster than normal cruise speed, some areas of turbulence with strong eddy currents and of course the large tows. We have seen 5 X 5 tows that is 5 barges wide X 5 barges long and understand the limit is 5 X 7. When they push upstream they create a large wash behind the tug and it is best to stay clear. The tug captains are generally courteous and will tell us how to proceed as we encounter them. I stand in awe of their capability in directing these barge tows through the river. Barges can be 50 feet wide and 290 feet long a 5 X 7 tow would be 250 feet wide X 2030 feet long. However, in those areas requiring locks the locks limit the size of the tows to 110 feet wide by 1200 feet long, tows can be split at the lock and some of the barges locked through then the balance of the barges and the tug a fascinating process.

Wing Dam

Our first anchorage on this leg of the trip. We are learning about wing dams, piles of rock perpendicular to the river that reduce erosion to the banks and direct the water flow to the main channel. The army corps have built hundreds of these structures, “wing dams” along the river. Well some silt in completely at this water level some are exposed and a few telltale signs indicate if it is a possible anchorage. Vertical walls are good, sandy beaches bad, look for eddy currents off the point, look for sandbars inside of the structure, and then poke your nose into the downstream area below the wing dam to see if it is deep enough. We are looking for a spot that could hold 4 boats if possible or at least 2, deep enough, protected from both the current and the wake of the enormous tows on the river with a clean enough bottom to hold the anchor. Well here we are at Grand Tower Island our first anchorage, all four boats maybe a bit closer than we would like but certainly safe. 

Always 5 O'clock at anchor behind the Wing Dam

Maggie going ashore after anchoring with Bill and Sue

Alton IL to Hoppies Marina

    

The arch

Today was the like taking your first drivers -ed course by driving the Chicago freeways to O’Hare airport.  We left Alton IL, a charming town and a beautiful marina and made good time through two early locks.  These were the fastest locks we have been in and created turbulent water for the downward ride.

Barges everywhere

Soon we were in traffic, barges by the hundred.  Tow boats pushed 12 or 20 or 35 giant barges in front of them, and sometimes we met them coming and going.  As a group of four small boats traveling together we were able to organize ourselves and pass them with a minimum of terror.  The choices are passing “on the one whistle” or on the “two whistle”.  It’s all done by radio communication with the barge captain.

Consider ……. “This is Mckeljfnakfja kalkaaiia tow downbound, plezzzurecraft you kin pass me ona two whistle”.    ????????????   

Barges, construction barges & cranes

Now say that with radio static, a couple of engines in the background, a bridge overhead with trucks – and in a southern drawl.     Oh, and by the way, the water is churning from every direction because the Missouri River just joined the Mississippi.  Just another fun and relaxing day.   We came past the St. Louis Arch about mid-day and got a moment of tourism in the midst of the mayhem.

Hoppies Marina

We arrived at Hoppies Marina, a legend of a place made of 4 sunken barges and operated since 1934 by one family.  Fern Hoppie is the matriarch and holds a briefing each afternoon where we learned some Civil War history, some family history and a lot about what to expect going downstream.   Just up the hill is the tiny town of Kimmswick, Missouri.  We went to the Blue Owl for lunch- awesome good – and then spent a little time wandering in the charming little shops. 

Blue Owl Restuarant, serves 300 people on a week day only open for lunch

We are learning to collect every drop of information passed along by the Loopers just ahead of us on the route so that we can make wise decisions for the days to come.

Grafton Harbor to Alton Marina

As we awoke the boat was covered with small May Flies, they could be moved lightly with a broom but would only move a few feet. At one point there were 200 on the stern of the boat. A short cruise planned for today just 16 miles, we fueled with 165 gallons of diesel fuel, I am very pleased with the fuel consumption at this point. This was our first fueling since Racine, 390 statute miles or 340 nautical miles.

Bluffs in Illinois

The information about the Mississippi makes this part of the trip to seem quite dangerous. Strong currents, lots of traffic and few places to stop with only a few fuel stops and no repair facilities. 

The cruise today was great, sunny, 75 degrees with northeast winds 7-10 knots. 

Beautiful bluffs along this portion of the river with islands and good depth small current about .7 mph. A very enjoyable day. 

The Alton Marina is covered and under a large highway bridge

Tonight the harbor host here at Alton will present some information about the river conditions. Looper harbor hosts provide a valuable service with local knowledge.

Addendum: Bob and Patty were great and provided much information about the river and what to expect. Then they took us to this great restaurant called Mac’s for our “last supper” in a restaurant for a while. Ribs, prime rib, steaks, good company and great stories, Mac the owner bought us all a round of drinks, amazing.

Bob and Patty far right, potential harbor hosts of the year.

Great house on top of this bluff

Grafton, Illinois

Grafton is a nice town for a rest day – we slept in, and took it easy.  We woke up to gray skies and reasonable September temperatures, what a relief.  This marina has lots of nice amenities besides the pool and restaurant.  We did the laundry and hung out doing chores and visiting with the marina neighbors.  

Garden and Gift Shop

Midday we went for a walk down the Main Street; about four blocks of historic buildings and small businesses.  One block had three different ice cream store choices so we had lunch at one of them.  It’s a quiet town on a Thursday, but the local people were all very nice.  The yards in front of some shops had beautiful flowers, and the old Bank Building is now a gift shop.  Next to the front door is a sign that says “If we are closed, slide your money under the door”.  Very enterprising we thought – I wonder if it works.

Really good restaurant with lots of history

For dinner we went to the Reubel Hotel.  Built in the 1800’s it has survived floods and fires, and has a resident ghost to add to the local color.  It also serves very good food and we highly recommend it for a stop on the Loop.

Blue Moon, Always 5 O'clock, Reunion, and Entree